Marth's page
Dec 4th
If you are going to get laid off I highly recommend a 2 month bus trip to Belize. November 30th, my last day at work. December 1st, moving day. December 2nd, one day to be sick. December 3rd, my parents drive me to Kettleman City (my dad likes to tease my mom about living there someday) to meet the bus. I experience my first In and Out Burger, load my things on the bus, smile for the camera and the Odyssey begins...
I had been wanting to go on this trip since I first heard about it in May, just before I accepted a new job in CA. I had tried to think of a way I could go on the trip and still keep my job. The events of Sept 11 or the recession that loomed even before that dreadful day provided me the answer. The timing couldn't have been more precise. Perfectly orchestrated, I have become an unemployed, homeless gypsy. Benjamin, in his co-dependency, has no choice but to join me on the adventure.
I have shut off my cell phone and learned to drive the bus.
We drove late last night, through Barstow (home of the McDonalds in a train) over the "woop-de-woos" towards Needles and crossed the border into Arizona before parking for some slumber. I recalled making that trek as a child with my family in our white interiored gold painted Ford Torino (god I thought that car was cool). My grandparents lived in Lake Havasu City and we would get up early in the morning and drive from Santa Ynez Valley, CA to visit them. During one of these drives my mom was at the wheel, my dad in the passenger seat and the three of us kids in the back seat. I think I was about 8 years old. My dad and brother were singing "Like a Storm in the Desert" playing on my fears of lightening strikes. I was getting so scared I began to feel sick. My loving mom tried to defend me and was telling them to stop teasing me but they persisted. We pulled over to the side of the "woop-de-woo" road because I thought I was going to throw up.
Dec 8th
Well, I am sure you were all wondering what happened next...
I didn't throw up by the side of the road. Instead I waited until we were back in the car and promptly threw up on my defender. Too bad I couldn't have aimed for one of my assailants. Anyway, we are now deep into Mexico and we've just taken our first wrong turn which has taken us off the toll road and onto el carretera gratis - "free road".
We have had what seems like good luck so far. No searches at check points, no trouble getting across the boarder. No one has even come on the bus besides an animated drunk named Juan, aptly described by James as "A Mexican Mr. Bo Jangles". He was hanging out at the gas station. He first joined Mace and Clark in a game of American football and then entertained the girls with Peso antics. He even gave them his autograph. After posing for the camera to be recorded in the Bustrip history he came on board the bus for payment. Sheesh, we can't expect to be entertained and get an autograph for free!!!
Maybe our good luck is the result of the new Mexican President Vicente Fox who's policy towards Americans is one of Amigos, not Gringos. If you haven't read the journal page, please see James' description of the events yesterday. We were one of the last few to pay the toll in Saucillo before a peaceful protest against the toll booth by locals. We became celebrities sitting on top our entrapped bus in our beach chairs. We were interviewed by the state newspaper - we will try to get a copy of it so we can post the article here for all to enjoy. One local said we looked like we were at the beach :)
Ah, made it back on to the toll road. Our short stint on the free road took us past several interesting sights. One, a fish store called "Pescadero Marthita" which amused me most. We then passed a large gathering of vultures who appeared to be waiting for the next group of lost gringo tourist and finally a cow on the side of the road that appeared to have been sleeping there far too long. "Mummy Carcass" says James, it was pretty desiccated.
So far bus life has been peaceful. Since I can't read while in motion without getting car sick, I sit and watch the landscape go by. The few times the sun has been out I sit with eyes closed facing the warmth and soaking it in. I have been on the bus for only 6 days now and the lifestyle I knew before getting on the bus is quickly fading. It's interesting how hard it is to imagine what I would feel if I hadn't been able to go on this trip. Well I am here and looking forward to wait lies ahead.
We are trying to get to Guanojaunto today where we plan to spend a day or so. Hopefully we will be able to update the website and check e-mail there. We voted to go through Mexico City and it looks like the timing will put us there on Dec 12th which is the big festival of Guadalupe. I am happy I will get to see my dear friend Patricio.
Dec 12th
I finally reached my friend Patricio on the phone, unfortunately we are already 200-300 kilometers south of Mexico City. Since he had no way to return my phones calls and I had no way of forecasting exactly when we would arrive in Mexico City, we we unable to connect. We had decided before we reached Mexico City that we would brave entering the city to witness the festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe and some part of the culture if we had a expert guide. It felt so strange to be driving through the city with out him. We have known each other for over three years and spent most of that time divided by many miles and as well as what we call a "Language Barrrriiiieeerrr", Well, we will try again on the way back. I wish him a very happy birthday 12/25!!! Feliz Cumpleanos me amigo dorkito favorito!!!
It's starting to get hot. We are in the city of Cordova, on the route between Mexico City and Veracruz. Dropping down out of the mountains south-east of Mexico City we came into a beautiful valley with a town I hope to visit some day, Nogales. I love the color of the houses here. Everything is so bright, like a garden of many different flowers. If you painted your house the way they do here your neighbors would hate you, but here there are so many different colors that everything and anything seems to go together.
Dec 13th
The landscape has completely changed, along with the temperature and the population of biting insects... we are in the jungle! Last night I sweated my self to sleep. It is very warm and humid but the green is beautiful after driving many miles along roads lined with trash and dead dogs. I am so saddened by the plight of dogs here. What can I do? The street dogs seem to be very sweet and starving for attention. I wish I could pet them all and show them that someone loves them. I see many females pregnant or with large nipples. Clearly one thing that could be done is to try to control the population.
Last night we ate at a restaurant in the center square of the town Cadenas.
There we met Jaksiri and her family. M
ore on them in a bit, but to
continue with dog thoughts: Jaksiri asked how much I paid for Benjamin.
Why would she think I paid for him when there seem to be so many dogs that could
be had for free??? It appears that there is a large division between
street dogs and those suitable for pets. I think many people have dogs as
protection, which would explain the fear with which most (especially male)
people responded to Benjamin as I walked him by on his leash. Even
my fellow dog lover friend Patricio has 2 dogs he treats as children and at the
same time has what he calls "Garden dogs" who live outside in the
courtyard of his family's house. Of course these dogs are very well taken
care of but they are not part of the family as are his 2 dogs.
I hope someday I can prove true to my convictions and actually do something
that will help as many dogs as possible. Any potential sponsors to my
cause are encouraged to respond :))
Jaksiri, a beautiful and beautifully friendly girl works as a waitress in her family's little restaurant. She told me Pollo Frito was her favorite so I ordered it. While her mom Blanca and her sister Marta prepared our food, she sat down and talked to Clark and me. She asked where we are from, where we are going, why... etc. She was very patient with my poor Spanish, always smiling and looking at us with an eager friendliness. She has long curly golden hair and brown eyes that glow when she smiles. She moved around the restaurant with the energy and grace of her eleven years, always alert to any needs of her customers. After a while, most the others in our group discovered the special place we had found and joined us. Marta and Jaksiri quickly added tables and Blanca prepared more of her wonderful meals.
After eating Clark took the pictures and they seemed delighted at the fact they could see their photo right away on the little display screen. We exchanged addresses and I plan to send my new amiga a letter. I would love to see how her life develops. Her mom said we should come visit them again and I truly hope some day I can. Maybe even on the way back. Though the way we have been spending our pesos we might be forced to take the free roads all the way home :)
Dec 19th
I have no idea what day of the week it is! We are staying at a beach about 10 km south of Playa Del Carmen. Reading about Playa Del Carmen in the tourist books (Lonely Planet etc) made it sound like a place we would want to stay a few days, we even "found" a campground with Palapala's (covered places to hang our newly purchased hammocks) with a restaurant nearby and right on the beach! When we actually arrived in Playa Del Carmen it was a tourist trap of standard measure. The wonderful campground we had read about did have the elements it described but somehow it was not even close to what we were imagining. We walked on the somewhat disserted beach, it was beautiful. Short dark men from the beachfront restaurants practically tried to drag us into their establishments as we sauntered by, looking around. Tourism is clearly suffering! We eventually got suckered into Captain "Something's" by the promise of tortas (Mexican sandwiches, our new favorite) that turned out to be more like TGI Friday's club sandwiches. I was the only one who didn't order a torta - I wanted ceviche and I paid the 70 pesos they were asking... it was only slightly better than horrible. We found the tourist information booth and asked for someplace to camp that would be more serene. Again, we were excited by the description of "there's nothing there" only to find a standard mobile home park, but we were getting closer...
One more promise of the private beach we were all desperately seeking after two weeks in the bus lead us down a small dirt road to an area right next to the Copacabana that was supposed to be developed into a big resort and had failed to proceed. The "caretaker" charged us 25 each per night and we have been here for 2 nights so far and plan to leave after the 3rd night.
We got the kayaks down from the top of the bus, broke out our snorkel gear and we hit the beach. Ah... finally! It was what could be called a "rich" snorkel environment but there were some colorful fish and we all took our time floating in the clear warm water watching them. Mace and I unintentionally caught a wave as we were trying to position ourselves to surf. Hehe, we wiped out but it was still fun. The 2.5 person kayaks owned by Clark, James and Mike (who is not even on this trip) are much more tipsy than I expected, but it is great to have them - thanks Clark, James and Mike! Snorkeling is very fun. (Mom, I recommend you buy your own snorkel gear. I think it is worth having decent gear of your own.) I like resting on the surface, just swaying with the current and watching the sand blowing by on the floor below.
The ocean is beautiful, unfortunately the sky has been less graceful. It has been mostly cloudy which helps keep the intense heat away, but at least 3-4 times a day the rain comes rolling in with the intensity to soak everything 20 times over in a matter of minutes. The first time we all stood out in the rain and enjoyed a free shower. It came down so hard that at times it actually stung your bare skin. A few got chilly so they went out into the ocean to get warm. "It's never going to clear up" says Mace as I am typing this. We have encountered several severe weather types. Leaving WA and OR Greg had to wear chains and everyone else their fleece. In TX we enjoyed relatively moderate weather but as we moved into Mexico it became too hot. So we went from complaining about the cold and the rain, to complaining about the heat and humidity (and rain).
How is Ha Ha's? Many of you have asked in your e-mails. He is the best, as always! He seems to be doing well, much better now that we have reached the beach and he is free to roam around. He is such a good boy, sleeping right outside my tent at night... always on guard for his mommy. Oh, and he is too damned cute in his life vest! By Mexican dog standards he is obese and may times I have been told that as we walk by. They will say "gordo" or as he was known in the hippy camp Bella Maya outside Palenque, "Fatso". I always defend him by saying, "No, no, no, esta muy fuerte... it's all muscle!" and they laugh. But, after being around all the scrappy dogs here in Mexico, I too am starting to think he might be a bit too chunky. At least he could probably handle the heat a little better if he weren't so well padded. Oh, but it happens to the best of us and I am certainly in no position to pass judgment on him. I am so glad he is with me!!
So we have to be in Belize by 12/22 to meet Mollie, a friend of Kyle's, at the airport in Belize City.
Ok, time for me to get in the water. More later....
Dec 22nd
We are in Belize! If it hadn't been so hot I would have found the border crossing comical in it's complete chaos... but I was too hot and bug bitten to be at all amused. It took us 3 hours to make it through and all they confiscated was some beer. There was no instruction on how to go through the process and depending on who you ask, there are probably an infinite number of ways you can do it. I had to pay a $50 US fine because I didn't have a supposedly required permit (which the Belize Dept of Agriculture failed to mention when I called them to find out what was required) to take Benjamin across. The guy who filled out the form asked me how much Benjamin was worth and I replied, "he is priceless - have you ever seen a more perfect creature?" to which he said "every time I look in the mirror"... oh jeez Marge!! I was glad to pay the $50 and get out of there.
I don't remember exactly what I expected of this trip. It sounded so
romantic and exotic to drive a bus to Belize with a group of people who were
also interested in experiencing nature, culture and each other. I feel
somewhat disappointed. We have seen some beautiful places, I have
talked to some very kind people and I have watched the l
andscape go by,
wondering many different things. Why is Mexico so poor? Why don't
people care about the homeless dogs? Why don't they have a garbage
system? We as a group have had some fun times, playing games,
driving along listening to music and singing along, teasing each other and
making jokes. But I have felt alone the majority of this trip. It
seems strange to me that I could feel lonely while traveling in such tight
quarters, but I have yet to make a connection with someone. I wish I could
be standing there looking at a sunset and someone would walk up next to me and
say, isn't it amazing? Or even a response to the questions I just posed,
for I have said them all out loud, but no one shared any thoughts. I am
thankful for Benjamin's company and affection. I am trying and mostly succeeding
at keeping myself positive and I am very appreciative to James for creating this
opportunity for me. Maybe I have stopped trying as hard as I once did to
make connections with people. Maybe I don't need to anymore - I hope
that's it. It just seems like it would be nice to share this experience
with someone else. Maybe I am a little worried about the uncertainty of my
future and so far the trip has not provided enough of a distraction from
my homeless/unemployed/gypsy reality. I will try to spend more
time with James and Ally.
Well the bus is on the move again - we are off to see a Howler Monkey Refuge. It's very difficult to write while the bus is in motion. My love and Happy Holiday wishes to everyone!
Dec 25th
Merry Christmas and Happy Festivus for the rest of us!
There is simply not enough space on the keyboard between the "x" and the "c". I had typed a very extensive e-mail to my loved ones today - to wish them all a Merry Christmas and to thank them for their e-mails (especially Dad, Chris and Michelle) and I was trying to copy something by using the "ctrl + c" key stroke and instead hit "ctrl + x"... Blammo - my e-mail was gone! That command closes the window without warning. There were several people waiting to use the Internet and in my frustration I decided not to re-type everything and gave someone else a chance.
Anyway, they are planning to update the web site tomorrow. I hope my family gets to see this before they leave for Hawaii. Dad & Dave, thanks so much for your e-mails. Mom, Happy Birthday - it was wonderful to hear your voice on the phone. Shar, I'm sorry I couldn't read the e-greeting you sent me. I love and miss you all very much and I am sorry I won't be with you in Hawaii - I hope you have a great time! Happy Birthday to Chris and Patricio!
We are in a small town called Hopkins, on the coast in South/Central
Belize. While we prepared a wonderful Christmas dinner we were entertained
by some local boys (Hopkins Village Boys) who claim to have their own music cd
(they were very talented). After we ate, we gave them all the leftovers
and they were very appreciative. (Hopefully the pictures are up on the site so
you can see them) Clark and Mace have an acquaintance (Sharon) who lives
here and we are planning to make this home base for a while. She just
moved here from California and has offered to let us park the bus at her
house. It seems like a very pleasant area. We will probably divide
up into smaller groups - make some trips to the islands off coast, maybe try to
find a river to raft on - we'll see. Benjamin and I don't really have a
plan yet.
Yesterday and the day before we spent at Caves Branch. I think they have a web site - try www.cavesbranch.com We took the cave tour on inner tubes - it was amazing! Imagine floating through 7 caves, covering 7 miles of river, during most of which you are actually in a cave. The Stalagmites/tytes are not as impressive as Carlsbad, but the fact that you can float through on an inner tube wearing headlamps made it well worth the money. We couldn't take the digital camera so we will have to wait for the film from the waterproof cameras to be developed to share that experience with you.
Oh, before I forget - a few people commented on the picture of Benjamin where he appears to be growling. In fact, he was not growling - Clark (the photographer) just happened to catch him licking his lips or something (Clark's mom asked if Benjamin was trying to bite him - hehee - obviously she has never meet sweet Benjamin).
I am covered in bug bites and I cannot stop itching. Ugh! I'm finding it hard to focus - so I will sign off for now. Thanks to James for keeping the main journal updated with all our experiences.
Jan 3rd 2002
Wow, 2002 and I am still covered in bites and stuck in itching hell! Every time I get a new bite, it seems to trigger all the other bites to start itching again. It is most frustrating! Last night I think it was actually making me sick. Today it is a bit cooler so I am wearing pants, socks and shoes in an attempt to protect what little skin I have left on my legs.
We have been staying with Sharon near Hopkins, just hanging out mostly and having a great time. I went scuba diving and I LOVE it! It could be partially due to the fact that being 40 feet under water is the only place I am safe from bugs, but I think he truth is that I was meant to live underwater :) It is incredible - an entirely new world and so peaceful. I wish I had known how amazing it is so that I could have gotten certified before coming in this trip. James, Ally, Mace, Clark, Sharon and I went out last weekend with a couple of dive instructors and they gave me an introductory course which allowed me to dive at shallow depths (up to 50 feet) with them for the rest of the weekend. I can't wait to get fully certified so I can dive again.
Today we are heading off to pick up Heather at the airport in Belize City and then we will attempt to do some rafting on the Macal River.
Jan 14, 2002
It's great to have Heather here!! We (James, Ally, Heather, Benjamin and I) survived a week on Glover's. See James' writing in the journal for a description of this interesting Island (Caye) and the family that runs the "resort" there. I survived it by spending the week scuba diving. I am now certified "advanced"! I think one of the reasons I love diving so much is that it is the closest you can get to flying. Since I have spent my life in almost constant struggle with my body and how it feels, being weightless is wonderful. I can move so freely with no resistance. And, I am amazed at how the undersea life reacts to our presence... pretty nonchalantly. They avoid you if you get too close, but basically they go about your business. We must just appear to be big fish who have never tried to eat them so ok. Oh - I swam with dolphins!!! We were on the boat on our way out to a dive sight when we came upon a group of 6-10 dolphins. We quickly put on our masks and snorkel and jumped in with them. I immediately knew these are intelligent creatures. As soon as I jumped in they responded. They looked right at me and swam towards me to check me out. They were talking to each other. It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. I love animals. People are so damned critical and mean sometimes. No animal I have known is that way. Sorry, almost off on another animal sermon. Anyway, it was a brief encounter. They swam around us, playfully and innocently. I wanted to touch one but they only came within about 10-15 feet to me. I plan to dive as much as I can in the future, so I hope to meet these incredible beings again.
I have been out of touch for almost two weeks and I haven't checked my e-mail at this writing. So, I will stop here and try to respond to my e-mail when I get to see them. Hopefully tomorrow. All is well with Ha Has and me. We have enjoyed our time here outside of the bugs. I am looking forward to out trip home too. I actually miss being on the bus :) There is something about road trips that appeals to me. Why is that?
Jan 17, 2002
Back in Mexico! We crossed the border from Belize into Mexico with little challenge and only a couple of annoyances. They confiscated an apple James had just bought 10 minutes earlier and was looking forward to eating. Then, when he tried to buy insurance for the bus, the vendor said he couldn't pay with bills that had writing on them. It's hard to imagine any Mexican turning down perfectly good US green backs. So some frustration for our faithful bus driver, but it was quickly overcome as we hit the Mexican calleterras with Mana singing us along. It's nice to be back in Mexico because the sand flies/fleas that were killing me in Belize seem to have a much harder time getting across the border and so far I am getting a break from the torture I have known for the past 3 weeks. Belize and it's people are beautiful and it was very sad to leave my new friend Sharon. It's amazing how quickly a place can begin to feel like home. It seemed like I had known Sharon for a long time, we had a lot in common and she is the type of person you instantly feel comfortable with. She is a truly generous woman who took us all in without even knowing us. I think our experience of Belize could have been very different if we hadn't known Sharon (and of course the Andrews brothers - maybe more on them later).
So we are on our way home, expecting to cross through Mexico in about 7 days. Hmm, this could possibly put me in the line for US Customs for my 34th birthday, 1/24. Jesus, I am wondering... how did I get to be 34 already? Anyway, I was very sick for two days but I seem to have kicked out whatever kicked the hell out of me. At first I thought it could have been some kind of food poisoning. I had two green salads in one day, trying to satisfy my craving for fresh food after a week of strictly canned and boxed food on Glover's. Eating any kind of unpackaged or uncooked food in a 3rd world country could be considered running with scissors. But, I had actually been feeling bad for a few days before that day so the cause is unclear. I was also keen to blame it on the suspicious water we were given out on Glover's... it had "floaties" in it. But, Clark is now sick so it seems that we got the nasty flu that we have been told is going around Belize. God, I hate throwing up!
There are just 6 of us on the bus now. Just before leaving Belize, we met up with the other 4 to give them the rest of their belongings, or more accurately, get that stuff off the bus - (see Mace's rant for some background). I think the bus dynamics will be much more pleasant now. Plus it's just a lot less crowded.
Jan 20, 2002
The coastal route through Mexico is beautiful. There are many ranches and in general it seems much more prosperous than central Mexico. The towns are kept clean and the homes seem well cared for. I notice also that there aren't so many stray dogs and this makes me very happy to see. We are having a peaceful trip through Mexico so far. We continue to be waved through the military check points without question. We are approaching Tampico and from there will decide whether to head inland toward Monterrey or to continue up the coast. The free roads have been fairly decent so far. Last night we found a restaurant on the beach that allowed to park and camp for the night for 25 pesos. After spending about 50 dollars each the night before to spend the night in a nice hotel in Vera Cruz, it was truly a great deal. But, it was nice to stay in that hotel... a real luxury to shower at night and then again in the morning.:)
We are on schedule to hit the border for my birthday so I should be arriving to Mom and Dad's around 1/26 or so. I think the plan is to meet up in Kettleman City again. I am looking forward to getting home. Where that is exactly is unknown, but I am psyched up for resuming night hikes, paddling, rafting and cross country skiing... all the wet PNW has to offer. I am sorry I failed once again to connect to my dear, recently engaged friend Patricio (Congratulations!!).
Ugh, bumpy road... more later.
